The owner of Veeraswamy, Britain’s oldest surviving Indian restaurant, has accused the Crown Estate of undervaluing Indian cuisine after it refused to extend the Michelin-starred establishment’s lease at its historic Regent Street address in London.
Ranjit Mathrani of MW Eat, which owns the restaurant, alleges that the decision reflects a failure to recognize Indian gastronomy as equal in sophistication and cultural importance to French and other European culinary traditions. The dispute is scheduled to go to court on Nov. 4, with the Crown Estate maintaining that it needs to refurbish the building because of its poor condition.
Mathrani questioned whether the property manager would have treated a celebrated French or European restaurant in the same way, given Veeraswamy’s century-long history and international reputation.
“Would they have handled this the same way had it been a notable French or European restaurant?” Mathrani said. “One of the only reasons I can think of is that they do not regard Indian cuisine as being of the same importance, level or sophistication as French food,” he added.
The Crown Estate rejected the suggestion that its decision was influenced by culinary preferences, saying it was based on its responsibilities for maintaining the historic property.
Veeraswamy’s Legacy at Risk
Opened in 1926, Veeraswamy has become a longstanding presence in London’s dining scene, serving generations of customers and helping introduce Indian cuisine to an international audience. Its past patrons have included Indian independence leaders Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi and Mahatma Gandhi.
The restaurant’s menu draws on India’s regional culinary traditions as well as Anglo-Indian influences developed during the colonial era. Mathrani cited dishes such as vintage-style Anglo-Indian Mulligatawny Soup as examples of the culinary heritage the restaurant represents.
He argued that the Crown Estate had failed to give sufficient weight to the restaurant’s contribution to Indian gastronomy during negotiations over its lease.
Mathrani said he had tried to accommodate almost all the concerns raised by the estate but found its position inflexible.
He also pointed to the restaurant’s historical links with the British royal family. Veeraswamy catered twice for the late Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace, an experience Mathrani described as evidence that the establishment had received recognition at the highest levels.
Asked whether King Charles III shared the late queen’s appreciation of Indian cuisine, Mathrani declined to speculate. He said the restaurant knew that Elizabeth had valued and appreciated its food but added that he could not speak for the king’s personal views.
Crown Estate Cites Building Conditions
The Crown Estate said its decision was driven by the condition of Victory House, the building that houses the restaurant, rather than any preference for European cuisine.
“We are proud to have a diverse dining offer across our West End portfolio, reflecting the diversity of London itself,” a spokesperson said.
The estate described the decision as a difficult one taken in accordance with its responsibilities for managing the historic area. It also said it had offered MW Eat assistance in finding alternative premises within its portfolio, alongside financial compensation.
The dispute places the future of a celebrated Indian restaurant against the wider challenge of preserving historic dining institutions in one of London’s most prominent commercial districts.
For Mathrani, the issue extends beyond the loss of a particular address. He argues that Veeraswamy’s standing as a major institution of Indian gastronomy deserves recognition comparable to that afforded to leading European restaurants.
The Crown Estate, however, maintains that the decision reflects its property-management responsibilities. The court proceedings on Nov. 4 are expected to bring the competing positions into sharper focus as the restaurant seeks to retain its place on Regent Street.